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Sanbona Wildlife Reserve

Little Karoo, South Africa

By Jon Mountjoy

January 24^th, 2020

Day 1: The Dwyka Tented Lodge, Hippos and a Fox

It was a 20 minutes drive along a dusty, rutted road that eventually led us to the Dwyka Tented Lodge, part of the Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, set in a Karoo ravine. From the outside, it looks so small, and so camouflaged. They've done a great job of blending in with the local territory. They say "tented lodge" - and it certainly has a tent - but as you'll see, it has a whole lot more. I inexplicably don't have a picture of the outdoor jacuzzi.

Afternoon Gamedrive

After settling in, unpacking, unwinding, absorbing the silence and the rock formations and our lovely tent, it was time for our first game drive.

We popped down to the local watering hole. En route we saw our first giraffes in the distance, and a babble of baboons making their way across a dry river bed. At the waterhole itself, we found a few heron, moorhen, and a poor hippopotamus. You can see how the back of the hippo had been torn into. Apparently it looks far worse than it is - as they have quite a large fatty, protective layer there. However, it was a hint of something we were to see in the next few days.

The heron was kind enough to pose with the hippo.

Leaving the waterhole, I was really pleased to spot this furtive klipspringer. They're fast, and blend in so well with the background. They also bounce around like goats.

A few minutes later and we came across some more giraffe, zebra, and a lovely gemsbok.

En route to a sundowner, I was very pleased to spot a Cape Fox. They're super furtive, and I just caught it as it was running away.

The evenings here are superb. As you can tell from the fabulous light. We came across some weird glassy excretion - I'm not sure if we ever figured out what it was, except that it may have come from the stomach of an elephant.

Day 2: Rhinos, Creepy Crawlies and Black Shouldered Kites

An early start on Day 2, before breakfast. I distinctly remember hearing the beautiful sound of a bokmakierie. 10 minutes later, we can across these beautiful rhinos.

I guess my favourite would have to be this one - mother and child together. We spent a good while here, just quietly observing these amazing animals.

Their eyes appear a little forlorn. Perhaps a reflection of what is being done to their species. Just look at the magnificent folds in their skin.

En route back to camp for a fabulous breakfast, we came across eland, kudu, zebra, and an excellent creepy crawly. Where I grew up, the creepy crawly was called a songololo.

Our afternoon game drive started just outside the dining area. One of the rangers was holding this curious creature - a bladder cricket. I didn't touch it.

After that, we headed out and came across these fabulous elephants.

They deserve all these images, and more.

At one point we saw some movement in the distance. With my camera balanced on my knee, and despite the engine running (there's always a little vibration from that), I got some lovely shots of a black shouldered kite. It was static, hanging in the air, waiting for something delicious to move, no doubt.

Day 3: Buffalos, Birds and Moving Camp

At some point, we trekked on foot, looking for a cheetah. We eventually found, on an opposite hill - almost invisible. The cheetah is the most beautiful cat. I was so smitten by the kitten that I didn't capture it on camera. Also spotted, Karoo korhaan.

A little later, while trying to track down the buffalo, we came across this lovely Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk, tearing into something tasty.

I don't see enough woodpeckers in my life. This is a cardinal woodpecker.

These photographs don't do the the African buffalo justice. They're ill-tempered. Also spotted, a Cape bulbul and a chestnut-vented tit-babbler.

This camp is in the Cape Fold Belt.

After a hearty breakfast, we were en route to our second camp at Tilney Manor, when we saw this beautiful Verreaux's eagle feeding its young. It was very far away, and I'm happy go have got these shots.

Here are a few pictures of Tilney Manor. As its name suggests, it's not a tent, but a real, spacious, house. It was quite different from the tented accommodation we'd been staying in, yet still had magnificent views in all directions.

Outside we spotted a Hadeda ibis, Cape weaver, and curious mammals.

That afternoon, we saw a wide variety of animals, including some fine looking common waxbills taking a bath. We also went on a river boat tour, and had sundowners while bobbing up and down, rather gently, watching a herd of elephants making their way home.

That evening, we saw the end of the grizzled hippo. Sitting in a nearby range rover, we witnessed another hippo make its way to the water hole, and proceed to attack this poor hippo. At one point it was standing on top of it, trying to drown it. It was severely injured. I have a few (bad) pictures taken at night, but the sound and imagery is quite uncomfortable.

Day 4: The White Lions

In the morning sun, we at last encountered the white lions that the reserve is known for. They were magnificent, and rather lazy. Also spotted, a Kittlitz's plover, Oryx / Gemsbok, another Cape fox, and a rather evil-looking red hartebeest.

There you have it. Sanbona. It's a small reserve, yet remarkably near to Cape Town and so very accessible. We had a fabulous time. If you visit, please tell them I sent you.